The strongest trend for the autumn/winter 2023 season? Not clothes, but an attitude – or, more precisely, a clutch. The models gripped powder compacts at Giorgio Armani and their breasts at Ann Demeulemeester. The meaningful gesture was everywhere, from the model clasping her crimson edge-to-edge coat at The Row to the girls illuminated by the glow of the iPhones clamped in their palms at Courrèges to the woman grasping her ivory liquid-silk dress round her shoulders like she’d just stepped out of the shower at Loewe. Everything worked together to make the autumn catwalks feel a little more human.
Those real-life gestures complemented the season’s major look: pared-back, daily wear in high-quality textiles. The runways at Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, and Loewe were all replete with clothes that one might easily throw on before heading out for the day. If you’re rolling your eyes at a magazine extolling the virtues of clothes you can actually wear, the difference was in the details that elevated them from mundane to magazine-worthy: a pair of socks rendered in peachy-soft leather at Bottega Veneta, for example, or a chain connecting the hem of an oversized white shirt to a shoulder at Loewe, lending its silhouette an artful ripple.
Every Outfit Jeanne Damas Wears in a Week
Perhaps that’s why severe black coats made an appearance, along with classic white shirts fashioned in a variety of inventive ways (good news if you already own one). Same goes for corporate-infused ensembles that merge shoulders that could fill trading floors with pinstriped suits and ties – if a financial crisis is on the way, you might as well dress for promotion.
There were some lighthearted moments. Metallics glistened, with draping liquid lamé a delightful accent to sequins. Then there was the defiant, punkish energy that, whether consciously or unconsciously, paid homage to the late, great Dame Vivienne Westwood, who died in December. Florals took on a somewhat gothic hue (make the Wednesday Addams reference if you want – the Netflix series is undeniably on numerous designers’ watch lists), while sheer, lingerie-style fabrics and underwear worn with tights lent a “woke up like this” nonchalance.
Aside from sparkle, timelessness has been the watchword in fashion for some time now, as we’ve all changed to a more conscientious approach to dressing, but there has never been a better time to search for investment buys. Looking current and maintaining a future-proof wardrobe are synonymous when the season’s standout items include a white shirt and a black coat.
Real talk
The season’s most wearable designs have a straightforward chicness to them that appears formulaic at first glance. Pair one grey hoodie with a strong-shouldered camel coat and leggings, as seen on the Miu Miu girl and her doppelgängers on their way to spin class in Notting Hill; pair your baggy blue jeans with a striped shirt and a trench, as seen on the Gucci woman and her doppelgängers buying a coffee in Brooklyn. But such casual luxury comes with outstanding details: Bottega Veneta’s blue pants are made of wafer-thin leather, and Fendi’s trench coat is laced with beige sequins.
The great black coat
At first glance, next season’s important wardrobe investment doesn’t set the pulse racing – unless you’re a Wednesday Addams devotee. Still, there’s something about a well-tailored black coat that feels just right. Choose wisely, and you’ll be wearing yours for years.
Classic sequence
White shirts have always been a wardrobe staple, but this season they go from chorus line to spotlight in the classics capsule. Take them long and lean with the gown-like versions sweeping the floor at Valentino, boyish with a sleek miniskirt at Prada, or simple with a pinstriped style coupled with boxers at Bottega Veneta.
Executive suite
Things are heating up in business communications. For the past few of seasons, a shirt and tie pairing has been on the verge of becoming a catwalk fixture at Dior, Valentino, and Alexander McQueen. Meanwhile, pinstripes are competing for employee of the month at Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton, striking a C-suite note. Then there’s the robust shoulder that bolsters fall’s primary silhouette, unmistakable at Balenciaga and elsewhere. Dress for the job you want, we say.
Swathe yourself
There’s no need to be concerned about the cold next fall: blankets, scarves, and shrugs were draped over everything from sharp tailoring at The Row and Saint Laurent to evening gowns at Giorgio Armani. Take a tonal approach, like Daniel Lee at Burberry and Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski at Hermès do, or invest in a playful brooch. Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton tied super-long, hand-knitted scarves with pins shaped like small brass instruments.
Savage garden
Camellias generally blossom in the spring, but Virginie Viard used a snow-white, supersized version of the flower as the center of her black Chanel autumn/winter catwalk. The Brobdingnagian bloom was also prominent in the collection, with silk brooches adorning the lapels of black jackets and designs on fluid monochrome skirts. Take note of the lack of color – florals have taken on a slightly gothic tone for fall. They were slightly grungy at Burberry, black lace at Paco Rabanne, and completely unearthly at Noir Kei Ninomiya.
Rebel, rebel
Dame Vivienne Westwood died in December, leaving fashion with a colossus. Her legacy lives on in the vivid tartans, flamboyant bustles, and exquisite corsetry that enlivened many a fall collection. Marc Jacobs was the first to pay tribute with his performance on February 3rd. Could it be a coincidence that so many other designers are promoting a punkish, non-conformist sensibility? It appears that activism is in the air.
